Our life at home has a certain rhythm to it, and sometimes gets busy (though our kids find it laughable that we think so, as their schedules are much wilder than ours ever get since we retired 4 years ago). Life on the Sea of Cortez has its’ own rhythm, much different than the one at home.
Camped at the far northeast end of Santispac on Bahia Concepcion, we’re parked right next to a small sandy boat ramp where several Mexican men keep their pangas on buoys just offshore. Some fishermen depart early, while at 6am daily others return from night-time shrimping, starting up their trucks and dragging their boats onto a trailer. This wakes us, but we don’t mind as we’re always in bed before 10pm so have had plenty of sleep.
Vendors begin appearing by 8am selling their food wares. We know if we want to go for a run, we have to do it early before it gets too hot (almost never a problem at home). And if we want to go kayaking, we need to get out early too, as the wind invariably comes up briskly between 11am and noon, and whitecaps appear, making it no longer fun to be on the water.
Days we plan to drive the 12 miles into Mulege to run errands, we have to do it by 1pm as the internet café closes then, as do many other businesses, for siesta until 3 or 4pm. All of this leaves our afternoons with little to do, so that’s when we go on walks or take a hike, read our books and take a nap.
And while this it not part of the daily rhythm, it does happen occasionally that a truckload of soldiers dressed in their camouflage uniforms and holding their weapons drives slowly up the beach checking to see what’s going on. They always have stern faces until we smile and wave, then they also break into a big grin and wave back.
As usual, we find we adjust readily and happily to this Baja rhythm.
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