Wednesday, October 19, 2011

Good Morning, Hanoi

Hanoi Maison D'Hanoi

We met our guide, Hung, at 5:30 this morning, after getting to our rooms at midnight last night. It was not quite sunrise. We were to ride bikes to the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum for the 6am daily flag-raising ceremony.

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Let’s just say it was more “hmm, interesting”, rather than a must-do, though all the Vietnamese seemed to treat it with great respect.  We’re beginning to appreciate that the Vietnamese view the creation of a unified country with quite different eyes than we Americans. This will be an interesting perspective to observe over the next couple of weeks. We have detected no anti-American sentiment here in northern Vietnam so far.

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But we got to see Hanoi wake up.  The streets were largely empty at 6 o’clock.

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Thousands of people were out,  young and old, alone or in groups doing modern aerobics led by an instructor or tai chi. Hung tells us that 5:30 am exercise on the streets or in the many tree-lined parks is the norm, and it seemed so.

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There was an informal, open-air street market Hung said would be gone by 7am, where individuals were selling used clothing, vegetables and seafood.

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And of course we saw some interesting sights.

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Other observations: we have yet to see any overweight  Vietnamese; the city is much cleaner than many big cities we’ve visited around the world; Hung tells us 70% of the population of the country works on farms; it appears that the Vietnamese form of Communism is more like that in China, with a great deal of capitalism in evidence, unlike Cuba; it is much easier to be a traveler here (so far) than in countries like Morocco, Cuba and Tanzania where we felt stressed by the non-stop persistence of locals approaching us aggressively to sell us goods or services we did not want, or simply beg for money. We have yet to see homeless people or beggars here, though income levels are quite low.

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We all arrived safely.  At our Driver's suggestion, we stopped at the Flower Market on the way in from the airport; at 11 o'clock PM it was bustling with activity. Pictures later.  It's now midnight local time, we spent 21 hours flying, and we're getting up in 4 1/2 hours to start our day. We'll post pictures of the flower market and tell you why we were up so early later.

Tuesday, October 18, 2011

Check-OK Narita International Airport, Tokyo


Latitude:35.77344
Longitude:140.38979
GPS location Date/Time:10/18/2011 23:54:24 PDT
Message:We are happy, well and having fun.
Click the link below to see wherewe are located.
http://fms.ws/6FzJ9/35.77344N/140.38979E

Lunch on JAL

Cathryn had Japanese: Zensai was vinegared veggies, salmon sashimi, black tofu, deep-fried flounder, poached string beans, prawn and eggplant, soba noodles with grated yam sauce, and Japanese pickles, followed by steamed pork and Chinese cabbage with steamed rice and miso soup. Dessert was chocolate cake and cheesecake.

Bob had Chinese. Hors d'oeuvres were radish and celery salad, seared scallops, spiced chicken, oriental veggie salad, and duck salad with cauliflower soup. The main dish was stir-fried chicken with black pepper sauce. Dessert was cheeses and grapes.

Better than the turkey sandwiches that we have at home!

And we’re off!

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Monday we drove to Vancouver as our flight to Vietnam leaves from there this morning.  Arrived mid-afternoon so took the Skytrain into town and wandered around for a few hours, then had a delicious dinner at “Sanafir”, a tapas place recommended by Mackenzie:  spinach falafel, calamari (of course!), and tandoori prawns – yum!

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Arrived at YVR (Vancouver airport) early so we could obtain iris scans to complete our NEXUS/Trusted Traveler files for flying into the U.S. and Canada without having to wait in those darned Immigration lines that sometimes make you miss a connecting flight.  When we come back to Vancouver at the end of this trip, we’ll go to the Global Entry kiosk, and voila – we’re through!  Off to a good start.

Sunday, October 16, 2011

Our SE Asia Journey


View SE Asia October/November 2011 in a larger map. (If you double click on link in the blue letters it will show a larger map and the place  name and dates of our visit to each "pin".

 We're in the final stages of preparing for our trip to SE Asia. Tomorrow, Monday, we drive up to Vancouver BC to spend the night, then catch a flight Tuesday morning to Hanoi, via a 3-hour layover in Tokyo. We're spending most of the trip in Vietnam but have added short visits to Siem Reap, Cambodia (Angkor Wat), Bangkok, Thailand and Hong Kong, China.

We'll send SPOT messages regularly and post brief blog posts when we have a chance. Since we're covering a fair amount of ground on this trip, we don't have a lot of down time, so details may wait until we get back. Our travel buddies are Bob's sister Lynn and her husband David, with whom we've traveled previously in the U.S., Mexico and Africa, so we know we're compatible.

We've also planned this trip to be more "upscale" than our usual travel style, including arrangements to have English-speaking drivers/guides for the time in Vietnam and Cambodia. We used frequent flyer miles (which our "miles-fanatic" daughter Mackenzie helped us accumulate), and obtained free business class flights, so we hope to arrive both in Hanoi and at home in better shape than usual after long flights. The map above shows where we're going, and when. In most cases if you zoom in on the map you'll find that the "stick pin" is located within a few blocks of the hotel where we are staying.

Saturday, September 24, 2011

It’s late September…..

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. . . . and while we aren’t back in school, the season is clearly changing, and we’re trying to get in some last summer activities before the fall weather keeps us inside.

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Two weeks ago,  Cathryn, friend Jim, and Jim’s 35-year-old nephew Ben left home at 5AM and drove to Paradise, on Mt. Rainier. Ben lives in Honolulu, poor boy, and wanted a snow fix.  Five hours climbing the 4 miles up to Camp Muir at 10,000 feet of elevation, the high camp for people continuing on to the summit, then three hours back down, glissading every time the steepness of the slope afforded an opportunity; add that to 6 hours of driving round trip, and we had an exhausted, stiff, but happy Cathryn Friday night.

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The next weekend we met up with our Canadian-Baja friends Doug and Jill in Leavenworth, in the Methow Valley of eastern Washington. They were just beginning a month-long road trip in the U.S., so we took the opportunity for one last visit for the year.  On Sunday we hiked the Icicle Ridge trail, which is just out of town. IMG_1464

Two and a half miles and 2000’ feet up the ridge, we arrived at a grand view overlooking Highway 2 winding its way up to Stevens Pass. Perfect weather and good company, including Lua, their well-behaved German Shepherd.

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Next up was Cape Flattery, just west of the tiny town of Neah Bay at the northwestern extremity of the “lower 48”  in the U.S. We don’t believe people who travel the world over have seen more beautiful scenery than this, right in our own “backyard”.  We’re astonished at the number of long-time Washington residents who have never been here.

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This is one of our favorite places on earth, no matter the weather.  Which is good, since this weekend’s weather was what you might expect when you visit a rain forest when it is officially Fall!

We were traveling with Lynn and David and drove up one day, did the Cape Flattery hike, then stayed the night at the Cape Motel in Neah Bay.

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Let’s just say that it’s supposed to be a lot better than the other Neah Bay alternative, the Tyee Motel, which one review on Trip Advisor recommended be condemned, then burned.

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The next morning we started our hike to Shi Shi Beach in the  Olympic National Park.  It’s about 2 miles in, through the rain forest, and the weather fit the name.

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A beautiful spot, but the rain lead us to wolf down a quick lunch, engage in some brief exploration of the beach and then head back to the car.

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Despite the rain, it was worth the trip. Shi Shi has been on our list for a long time, and we’ll go again, perhaps when the weather is dryer.

Friday, September 23, 2011

Check-in/OK GoreTex AKA Shi Shi Beach

Latitude:48.27498
Longitude:-124.67967
GPS location Date/Time:09/23/2011 09:56:28 PDT
Message:We are happy, well and having fun.
Click the link below to see where we are located.
http://fms.ws/62hNg/48.27498N/124.67967W
Beautiful; but wet.

Thursday, September 22, 2011

Check-in/OK Cape Flattery WA


Latitude:48.38594
Longitude:-124.72667
GPS location Date/Time:09/22/2011 16:45:10 PDT
Click the link below to see where we are located.
http://fms.ws/62LIc/48.38594N/124.72667W
Spectacular!

Tuesday, September 13, 2011

Transitions

You probably noticed we have a new photo at the top of our blog. It’s of Atlin Lake in the northwest corner of British Columbia, taken during our journey to Alaska in May 2010.

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Since we retired in 2007, we’ve done the majority of our travel by road, logging more than 25,000 miles over the western half of North America. From the village of Inuvik in the Northwest Territories on the Bering Sea, to Todos Santos at the southern tip of Baja California, Mexico, we’ve traveled in a couple different trailers.

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We started out in our 6’ x 12’ Chalet that we hauled behind our Toyota Rav4, and after the first winter in Baja, one of us decided we were not doing that again without our own bathroom.

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So we moved up to our 21-foot Arctic Fox 5th wheel.  Altogether we spent, 12 months living in these two RVs over a 4-year period. 

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We’ve seen some extraordinary places.

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And we’ve made new friends that we’ll probably keep as long as our memories of our travels.

But . . . . it’s time to move on to the next idea.  We’ve sold the Arctic Fox trailer, and following our travel to Vietnam, Cambodia, Bangkok and Hong Kong next month, we’re moving on to the next big adventure:  “The Great Loop”. 

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We’ve mentioned this in passing over the last few months, but between now and the first of 2012 you’ll see the blog transition into a “Loopers” blog.  Hope you’ll enjoy our transition from trailer trips to a 6,000 mile boat trip.

Friday, September 9, 2011

Check-in/OK Camp Muir, Mt Rainier National Park

Latitude:46.83551
Longitude:-121.73233
GPS location Date/Time:09/09/2011 13:08:40 PDT
Click the link below to see where I am located.
http://fms.ws/5wh8O/46.83551N/121.73233W
Cathryn climbed to Camp Muir today!  Photo's to come.

Thursday, September 8, 2011

The Great Sailboat Rescue!

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It all started with a knock on the door.  Bob answered and found our neighbor Marc, who said, “Is that Jim’s sailboat out there? I don’t see him in it.”

In fact, 3/4 mile offshore, there was Jim’s boat bobbing in the wind, 1-3-foot waves, with its sails down.  We called Jim, who answered his cell and said he was 8 miles away at Home Depot and would come to our house as quickly as possible. 

Unfortunately our dinghy was tied to our buoy offshore, so Bob went out in a kayak, retrieved the dinghy, installed the 2 horsepower motor, and went out in the wind and waves to mount a rescue.

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It was a long way out there (this pic taken with a 200 mm lens), and seas were rough as the wind was blowing hard.  The good news/bad news was that the wind had caused Jim’s anchor to slip, and the 60lb anchor, 30’ chain and 60’ of rode was all there hanging off the bow.

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Bob struggled to pull the chain and anchor into the dinghy, but was unable to for fear of capsizing the dinghy. He had out his pocket knife and was just about to cut the chain and anchor away, when he looked up and saw a small tug approaching.

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The 2-man crew on the tug stopped to ask if everything was OK.  Bob asked if they would tie onto the chain and anchor and haul the sailboat back to shore where we could deal with it.  They agreed, and off the flotilla went.

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Just as the tug  got to shore, Darren and Steve, two other neighbors, showed up in Steve’s motorboat.  Still another neighbor, Francine, had called Darren to report she’d seen the boat drift away, so Darren grabbed Steve to launch a rescue.

After we got Jim’s boat tied up to yet another neighbor’s buoy,  all the guys went off north of the Point to reset the anchor on Jim’s buoy system. We’ll hope it bites solidly this time.

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So, that’s the story of the great sailboat rescue, and the explanation of all the activity in this picture.  We guess there are a number of scenarios in which the saying “it takes a village” applies – 7 households from our street made this work, plus the tugboat guys! Happy ending.

Wednesday, August 31, 2011

Check-in/OK Port Townsend WA USA

Latitude:48.10672
Longitude:-122.7738
GPS location Date/Time:08/31/2011 13:40:05 PM
Click the link below to see where we are located.
http://fms.ws/5rNCd/48.10672N/122.7738W

We left Otter Bay around nine. The weather forecast for the next several days said winds of 5-15 MPH and wind waves of 1-2 feet, rain in the San Juan Islands.  It was wrong!  Everywhere we went it was flat as glass, so the horse got out of the barn, and we ended up crossing the straight! Lesson learned; believe your eyes, not the weatherman.

Tuesday, August 30, 2011

Mellow Day

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Today was far more relaxed than yesterday. Following a run, showers and re-fueling the boat, we took off at 10am, utilizing our previously discovered “slow speed” to conserve fuel, as we only planned to travel 25 miles.  We’ve learned that traveling at 15-20 mph can be stressful, watching for debris in the water (hitting a log can cause major problems, as we discovered in 2008), other boat traffic, and navigating unfamiliar territory while underway (recall there are no road signs or lanes of traffic on the water).

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Traveling at 9-10 mph is mellow.  We like mellow.  The Great Loop next year should suit us well, as we expect to buy a trawler that will routinely travel at 8 knots or so.

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We arrived at Otter Bay Marina on the west side of North Pender Island 3 hours later and found it to be a beautiful,  well designed and maintained marina. We went on a walk up the road (to nowhere, as it turns out), caught up on email, and had a beer while reading our books.  Life is good.

Check-in/OK Otter Bay, No. Pender Island BC

Latitude:48.79971
Longitude:-123.31046
GPS location Date/Time:08/30/2011 14:28:40 PDT
Click the link below to see where we are located.
http://fms.ws/5qp0Y/48.79971N/123.31046W

Pushing Our Comfort Zone

Yesterday morning in Pender Harbor we listened to the marine weather forecast for the Strait of Georgia for the next 3 - 4 days. None sounded good, but yesterday’s was the best of the batch, so rather than hang out for days, we decided to give it a shot.  The crossing is 25 miles in wide open water, and both the wind and waves are big if current or weather has any impact. We don’t take it lightly.boat 2

Out we went, first due south so we’d be at the point where the crossing is the narrowest, and where we had a place to duck into if we didn’t like what we saw.  After going only 3 miles, we didn’t like it at all, and knew it might still get worse, so headed into Secret Cove to consider our options.

We listened to an update of the marine forecast, and it said  the wind would die down late in the afternoon. So we hung out in the protected harbor until 2:30.  Out we went again, and it was definitely better, but still an uncomfortable two hour crossing. We must emphasize, it was uncomfortable because of the banging around; never did we feel it was dangerous or anywhere near exceeding the boat’s capabilities. It just felt like a horse who couldn’t make up its’ mind whether to gallop or canter, so switched back and forth between the two. Nonetheless we felt we had stretched our comfort zone.

We arrived back at Thetis Island, a favorite stop, and found conditions calm with flat water, clouds and cool temps. And internet!

Monday, August 29, 2011

Drum Roll: an Announcement!

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Last Summer when we acquired our new (to us) boat, we invited blog readers to participate in a contest to come up with its’ winning new name.  We received numerous entries from family members and friends, all of which were amusing and appropriate.  This made it a tough choice.  In the end, we selected a name most reflective of our history in figuring out the best way to enjoy our retirement adventures.

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Those who have followed our retirement journey over the last 4 1/2 years recall we first bought a 12-foot A-frame Chalet trailer and spent a couple months camping in Baja, Mexico for the winter. We adored this trailer, and Baja, but when Bob said he wanted to spend the next winter in Baja too, Cathryn responded “Not with me, unless we buy a trailer that has a bathroom!”  Our favorite beach camping spots in Baja have no bathroom facilities, unlike most  places in the U.S., and Cathryn is no longer a Girl Scout.  So . . . . we bought the Arctic Fox, our 21-foot 5th wheel trailer.

Next, we started going on extended (one week) boat trips to the San Juan islands.  Eventually we tired of staying in marinas, or at docks in State Parks, and wanted to be able to anchor out at more remote spots.  Again, Cathryn said:  “Not without a boat that has a bathroom!”  Seeing a pattern here, Bob sold the 23-foot bathroom-less boat, and we bought the new boat with a bathroom.

So . . . . the new boat’s name?   ALWAYS AHEAD (some would prefer to see it written as Always aHead; for those  who are familiar with nautical terminology and know that “head” is the name for a bathroom).  This name was suggested by Cathryn’s father, Crawford Rice, who is always quick to come up with a witty response for any circumstance.  So, we expect to end this trip with a christening ceremony, and have already registered with the U.S. Department of Homeland Security and with the Canadian Customs officials as “Always Ahead”.  We love the new name, and thank Crawford for the great suggestion.

Check-in/OK message Back at Thetis Island

Latitude:48.97788
Longitude:-123.6694
GPS location Date/Time:08/29/2011 18:25:40 PDT
Click the link below to see where we are located.
http://fms.ws/5qLRS/48.97788N/123.6694W

Sunday, August 28, 2011

Check-in/OK message Pender Harbor BC

Latitude:49.631
Longitude:-124.03375
GPS location Date/Time:08/28/2011 16:49:41 PDT
Click the link below to see where wwe are located.
http://fms.ws/5plZM/49.631N/124.03375W

Saturday, August 27, 2011

Relaxing & Exploring

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We slept in this morning and had coffee watching the sun come up over the steep fjord walls, not  hitting the dock and boat until 10 AM.

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Next up: a hike up the Trapper’s Cabin Trail. This trail was described by various sources as 2 hours, one-way, and very strenuous.  This being a “down” day, we only did about half of it.  A good work out going uphill and some careful footwork on the downhill side.

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This was the so-called trail, marked by orange plastic ribbons every 100 – 200 feet or so!

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We returned to dock, then rewarded ourselves with a beer and a short nap  -- slackers, huh?

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For the afternoon we dropped the tender in the water and took a little rowing tour of the vicinity. Waterfalls are everywhere in the Princess Louisa Inlet.

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There were lots of seals in the water, all of whom disappeared as soon as we reached for the camera.

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We returned to the dock around 5, and shared cocktail hour with our neighbors, Bob and Kathleen from Camano Island, retired for bbq dinner at 7, and are now settled in with a glass of wine and our books.

We will also note that when a spot opened up at the far end of the dock (opposite end from where the seaplanes dock), we moved. Not only did this get us out of the path of incoming or outgoing seaplanes, but left us with no foot traffic passing by us.  This afforded a first opportunity to try out our “black bag shower” (common for sailors, not so much for motor vessels) while standing on the swim step of our boat.  It worked great, and since the weather has been sunny with high temps in the 80s, we certainly need our daily shower.  Not a bad day!

Check-in/OK message Princes Louisa Inlet BC

Latitude:50.20389
Longitude:-123.76891
GPS location Date/Time:08/27/2011 17:04:51 PDT
Message:We are happy, well and having fun.
Click the link below to see where we are located.
http://fms.ws/5pAYG/50.20389N/123.76891W

Friday, August 26, 2011

WHAT???? No Way!!!

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Our son is rolling his eyes at Cathryn’s use of exclamation points, we’re sure, but in this case, we think their use is warranted.

During our 7 years of training as boaters, some in a classroom, some in the school of experience, we’ve imagined many disasters that could happen, as they’ve happened to others.  We’ve imagined on-board fires, hitting rocks, becoming grounded, or worst of all, sinking or falling overboard and drowning.  But NEVER have we worried about what happened to us today.

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After settling in at the dock here at Princess Louisa Marine Park, we undertook a common activity for us: walking the dock to look at all the other boats (about 15, in this case). We stopped to talk to a couple on a 42-foot trawler who are up from southern Oregon.  Ten minutes later we heard people down the dock loudly exclaiming, and Bob looked back and noticed someone was on our boat. Next we heard someone say a seaplane had hit one of the boats on the dock!  Guess whose boat?  That’s right – ours.

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A 4-seater Cessna seaplane had arrived shortly after we did this afternoon, unloaded its’ 3 occupants plus 2 big dogs, and 2 hours later they were ready to depart.  As they headed out of the seaplane docking spot, the pilot mis-judged his clearance, and his left wing smashed into our anchor light, and rear of our bimini and aluminum canvas support frame. Since we didn’t actually see it happen, we’re relying on the reports and photos of others who did, but we’re told the impact turned his plane toward our boat, and the propeller came within a foot of smashing into the boat. Spectators from nearby boats began running away and yelling, saying they expected the airplane to crash through our boat and into the dock.  Fortunately, that’s not what happened. 

When we realized what was going on, we approached the seaplane, asked who was the pilot, and identified ourselves as owners of the boat that was hit. The pilot was absolutely mortified, appearing near tears, and wouldn’t look us in the eyes. He was busy duct-taping the damage to the leading edge of his wing, where a light was smashed. If you look closely, you’ll see the duct tape on the wing to the right.

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While Bob examined the damage to our boat, Cathryn got the pilot’s business card, asked to see his driver’s license, asked the name of his insurance company, (which he couldn’t recall) and gave him our “business” card with our names, phone numbers and email address.  The pilot was clearly nervous, said he didn’t want to file an insurance claim, and asked what we thought the damage would cost to repair.  We have no idea, but it didn’t seem extensive. Our anchor light is destroyed, the frame for our canvas is bent, some webbing straps broke, and there’s a bit of damage to the canvas.  If there’s more, we haven’t yet ascertained it.  The pilot pulled $500 out of his wallet, gave it to us, and told us to please let him know if we needed more to cover repairs.

When the pilot took off from the dock a second time, he did not decline the offers of assistance from others in getting the plane turned clear away from the dock AND our boat!

So . . . . there’s our excitement for the day. How was yours?

Anti-Climactic

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We left Egmont at 9am and had a relaxed trip up Jervis Inlet, cruising the 40 miles at 7.5 knots to conserve fuel. The scenery is magnificent. The channel is 1 to 1 1/2 miles wide, the water anywhere from 300 to 2,000 feet deep, and the snow-capped granite mountains covered with fir, hemlock and spruce trees rise on both sides of the channel to 3,000 feet elevation. Waterfalls abound. The scenery is reminiscent of sights we saw on our Inside Passage boat trip with friends Greg and Terry on their trawler in August 2009.

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We arrived at the Malibu Rapids, entrance to the Princess Louisa Inlet at 1:00 and found, to our surprise, fast-running water, but no white water. This was very good news as it was 3 hours yet to slack tide, and we hoped not to have to wait. With heightened alertness, we moved into the narrow rocky channel and fast water, saw our speed immediately increase 5 knots (due to current), and before we knew it, we were through!  Anti-climactic, and happily so.

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An hour later, we’re tied up at the dock at Princess Louisa Marine Park at the base of Chattterbox Falls, a 1,200 foot fall dropping off the sheer granite walls above.

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Check-in/OK message Chatterbox Falls BC

Latitude:50.20478
Longitude:-123.76944
GPS location Date/Time:08/26/2011 15:01:26 PDT
Message:We are happy, well and having fun.
Click the link below to see where we are located.
http://fms.ws/5oSw8/50.20478N/123.76944W